August 07, 2008

Red Cliff


I just finished watching the first half of Red Cliff, a 2 CD Chinese blockbuster that stars Takeshi Kaneshiro and Tony Leung. They are China's two hottest male actors, and up to now, the only apparent reason for the film's box office success.

The movie's bad because the Chinese high-budget war epic has been done tens of times in exactly the same way: screaming violins, slow-motions, pained expressions and blood ... blood ... blood.
It's also bad because scenes are forced to fit a purpose, instead of naturally forwarding the plot. Takeshi Kaneshiro plays a brilliant army strategist with heart. Proof: five minute scene in which he looks up a mare's bottom and pulls a foal out from it. Tony Leung is a general with artistic sensitivity. Proof: he waves a feathered scepter and his whole army makes silence for a young boy's tentative flute playing. Leung then walks over to the boy and delicately peels the flute's holes with his dagger to improve the sound. In the following scene, he restores a stolen ox to the boy's grandfather.

So far, my favorite moment of comic relief: the ruler of the Wu state cuts off a corner of a table. Murderously glaring at his old advisors, he yells: "I have decided to make war with Cao Cao, whoever mentions surrender will end up like this table!!"

Posted by Aventurina King at 18:11:50 | Permanent Link | Comments (0) |

August 05, 2008

Yoga and Hip Hop in Beijing


I've begun reading "The Art of Happiness" by the Dalai Lama and Howard Cutler.  So far, I haven't found it intellectually challenging ( but then again, many self-helpy books pale in comparison with the analytical depth of Nathaniel Branden's "Honoring the Self").  Sometimes questions feel incompletely or simplistically addressed.  And yet, inexplicably, reading it leaves me inspired, happy and this evening, after I put the book down, I found myself brainstorming how to help people in my life.

The purpose of life is the achievement of happiness.  That's the first lesson of the book and I like it.  Avoid what makes you unhappy, embrace what makes you happy.

And there are two things right now that make me happy: Hip Hop and Yoga lessons.
I'm taking a fantastic Hip Hop class in East City Culture Center, between BeiXin Bridge and Jiaodao Kou.  Up to now, I had always been obsessed with Hip Hop--as a teen, there I was replaying Britney's "Baby One More Time" MTV, mimicking her school-girl moves--but classes bored me to death. 

This class doesn't, although it should.  It's practicing basic basic moves for a good two hours on Saturday and Wednesday.  Barely any choreography.  The last class spent an hour and a half on three basics: the side lift, the back roll, the oblique shoulders (I don't have the vocab for these things!).  During the side lift, you push your knees to the left without moving your torso, then comes a hit of the hips towards the left as your torso falls to the right, your torso lifts as your head tilts right, your torso rolls straight as your head follows.  Basically, the body looks like a blade of grass straigtening itself after a gust of wind.

The Yoga Yard is on the 6th floor of a building facing Beijing's worker stadium (the stadium now looks like a Christo super-sized Christmas package, wrapped in blue and red Olympic posters).  You take a glass elevator that slides up the side of the building.  It opens  onto a cozy reception area with piles of shoes and Yoga magazines.

My favorite part of the 6th floor is the locker room.  You gently brush aside a blue and white patterned silk cloth that serves as a door.  Soft light melts through the liquid glass windows.  Warm colored tiles shine a silent white.  Painted porcelain sinks, dark wooden cabinets, spacious showers hidden by generous folds of plastic curtains.  The area breathes a clean warmth.

Posted by Aventurina King at 16:59:22 | Permanent Link | Comments (0) |

July 29, 2008

The Basics: a 22 y.o. American/French Female Freelancer in Beijing


Here are the basics of my life in Beijing this Summer 2008:

I live in Season's Park, an apartment complex in the East center of Beijing right across from the Embassy neighborhood. I moved in during the first week after its construction ended May 08.
The complex has a swimming pool, a gym, a few fountains, an artificial lake with over-sized plastic water lilies. There is a legion of stray cats and 24 hour concierge service. Guards, "bao an," wear spotless white shirts, black pants and black sailors hats.

I wake up late in the morning. My studio's floor-to-ceiling windows face West onto the Beijing skyline. The sunlight sifts through the drawn curtains. Eyes half open, I grope under my pillow for my American blackberry. My white kitten Davy (full name: Alexandre Dumas Davy de la Pailleterie) claws his way up onto the bed to say hello.

By midday I have decided which coffee shop I will make my work headquarters. If I am feeling lazy, then I cross my apartment complex towards the East and ease into the armchairs of the Red Hotel's coffee shop, accross Chun Xiu Road. The coffee shop is run by a spectacled Chinese man whose face is round and open like an Indian Buddha's. In the morning, a short, charming waitress with chipmunklike features, Si Si, makes me the world's best iced capuccino: three quarters of the glass is thick milk foam. I cut through it with my spoon, it's like eating cloud.

Si Si and I used to have a squealing fits over handsome Ming Dao, the lead of Taiwanese TV series "The Prince Becomes the Frog." Lately Si Si tells me about her favorite Korean TV show, how it keeps her awake until late at night, how she starts work at 6AM.

If I have downloaded some make-your-booty-move pop songs--example: Will.I.Am "One More Chance," Madonna "Miles Away," Rihanna "Disturbia"--onto my ipod, I'll do the 20 minute walk over to San Li Tun. San Li Tun neighborhood mainly consists of a street jam-packed with over-priced foreign-owned bars and restaurants. On the South of this more commonly named Bar Street is the Bookworm coffee shop. It's the notorious place for foreigners to hang it, and is therefore avoided by weathered Beijing expats. It has a pricy Western food menu and unbearable waiters. The rumor has it they are cold, humorless and ungenerous because they are underpaid and mistreated: an extra shot of milk in your tea will be one US dollar thank you.

I favor a French restaurant, Le Petit Gourmand, tucked in a small road parallel to the Bar Street. It has a patio, red satin covered booths and wall to wall to wall bookshelves. I slip into my favorite booth and begin typing. Why is it my favorite booth? Because the Hollywood spoof novel "Get Shorty" is within hands reach when I'm tired of looking at the screen.

to be continued ...

Posted by Aventurina King at 18:24:39 | Permanent Link | Comments (0) |

April 22, 2006

Chinese classical painting and Beijing hood attitude

After nine months of absence, the duo is back: Aventurina and her faithful steed: pink bicycle junior (for information on adventures with senior, please see last summer in Beijing's blog).

Mr. J, as usual was elemental in my acquiring of this Beijing hood attitude's required ornamentation.  The bicycle scout was patrolling the nearby hutongs in search of potential buyers.  She wore a ponytail and her sun-beaten face framed her accented mandarin (she was from outside the city I concluded).  She hopped in the car and lead us to a different hutong, rife with salient garbage, flies and arrays of stolen TV sets.  After a few moments of absence, she materialized with my companion, it performed well.  I rolled in the usual frowns and fibs but it was though she had cut the price in stone (and Mr. J's verbal honoring of the dividend he would get off the deal behind my back did not make things easier, God bless you Mr.J).  The first bicycle stop of the day(after carefully paying due to the lady that guards the bicycles): the Chaoyang Book Market.  It is a two-floored lego puzzle in which the assembled pieces are separate book companies.  It is dusty and busy, cart full of books and sitting personnel race through the small alleys between the glass boxes of the companies.

Number 103 was the arts box.  I purchased A Complete Collection of Famous Chinese Paintings. I have eternally been confused about Chinese painting, yes they are beautiful, graceful, elegant additions in newly furnished New York apartments, but what more?  This book may have started to shed some light onto my desperate situation.  I have translated the following excerpt from mandarin(there being no English edition or equivalent on the www)(if there are any mandarin speakers that wish to make amendments, don't hesitate to comment):

 

Modes of Expression of Chinese paintings:

The six canons of painting:The six canons of painting represent the six goals of the classical painter: 1)The subject must be life-like 2)Outlined paintings must be drawn with a pen. 3)the objects of the painting must imitate shapes, or must be arranged along shapes 4)the chosen colors depend on the type of object, the season and the weather surrounding what is depicted 5)the painting must be composed 6)the painting must be true to its subject.   Boneless Painting: Painting without a pen, with only color.

 

The Five Faces of Ink:

In Chinese painting, ink is not only considered as a monochrome parcel.  It can complete the painting on its own and therefore can change appearance.  These appearances belong to five categories:anxious, strong, heavy, thin and clear.

 

The Eighteen Outlines:  There are eighteen ways to outline the folds of the ancient characters' robes: the iron line, the olive line, the smooth and natural line, the date stone line, the line of the battling pen and aqueous fold, the reduced pen line, the willow leaf line, the bamboo leaf line, the confused line, the pin-head line, the dry bramble line,  the earthworm line, the hairpin line, the lute's string line, the horse leech line, the nail head and rat's tail line, the cao clothing line, and the snapped line. (to be cont.) 
Posted by Aventurina King at 14:35:00 | Permanent Link | Comments (0) |

April 20, 2006

Bottoms up or the iridescent drizzle

The taxi pulled up in front of the wall of stairs at about half past seven. I awkwardly wriggled out of its belly after paying the fare and hurried up under the iridescent drizzle. The doors opened before me, I took a reticent breath and silently rolled in.

This is where I cut the narrative off and eloquently leap backwards in time for a few paragraphs (eloquently enough to prevent the reader from skipping down a few lines) . This apparently cuts the narrative with suspense.

Relevant flashback information in this case would be the development of my distrust in the concept: "alcohol as a social lubricant".

Camera action: Aventurina's first night in her freshman dorm room at Columbia University. Light that pushes through the windows onto illuminated crescents of carpet, the plastic of the bare mattress against her pyjamas and her life-long companion--the faithful stuffed goose--folded within her clutch. Neither the barrier of the door's fake wood or of her jetlagged sleep can keep out the sound of fellow freshmen reveling on a five dollar gallon of Californian wine outside in the common area. She opens her eyes, and hops off of the bed (Columbia students are like frightened cats, they like to perch up high or hide down below which translates in raised beds or bare mattresses on the floor). The acrid bleached light radiates out of the ceiling. She tries to concentrate on Homer.

Camera action: Aventurina's first college party. An elegant flat opposite the school, polished wooden floors that feel whole under a sandled foot, T-shirts and hands brandishing plastic cocktail cups everywhere, the unsettling sounds of human society in action, couches brimming with legs. Even she has a plastic cocktail cup in her hand, the sip of sugared alcohol hangs on her tongue like a wart, her drunk conversation partner sways precariously, like the Eiffel tower seen against a sky poka-dotted with racing clouds. His words are redundant, she still doesn't understand what drunk is.

Which brings me at last to the final camera action, what I eloquently backed up and drove around to come at from the informed side angle.

The final camera action takes place in Beijing, it isn't one weighed down by an exasperated nostalgia, but a realistic description of the drinking culture in China. Dinners are made for drinking, the heavy drinker is the dinner's king. It doesn't take much to imagine why I don't fare well at these events.

As I was writing before I was cut off by the imperatives of suspense: I silently rolled in through the doors of the restaurant. More fancy than Beijing's usual side of the road establishment, it had red gauze curtains suspended from the ceilings and black-costumed waiters wading through the sea of tables.

The guests seated at large round tables, their positions, a subtle nudge at their relationship with the host. After tea, the first round of cold dishes were wheeled in and deposited in a ring on the tables. The guests play timidly with their chopsticks, stomachs are growling. But wait! The first round of toasts. Gan Bei, bottoms up. "How come Aventurina is only drinking tea?" "Aventurina's not old enough to drink."

Twenty minutes for food and superfluous conversation. Silence. Small speech, everyone bottoms up. The substance in the shot glasses is crystalline, stronger than vodka.

Gradually the collective 'bottoms up' disperse. Groups of young ginger girls clack clack with their high heels over to the neighboring tables to toast. Groups from other tables, come over to ours with increasing boldness. I start wondering whether the food is only a very temporary exhibit. The volume escalates as taunts become more vehement "drink with me" "drink with these girls, if you don't drink with them, shame on you". Sometimes taunts are insidiously quiet, whispered suppliantly into one of the girl's ears "why won't you drink with me?" "promise you'll drink with me."

Eyes glaze over, cheeks fill with blood and hands grasp for bottles with a giggled-off feverishness. I'm already outside in the drizzle, wriggling into one of those metallic bellies.

 

Posted by Aventurina King at 15:13:39 | Permanent Link | Comments (1) |

April 17, 2006

Il pleut_______ (fill in the blanks)

Il pleut des chats et des chiens, il pleut des cordes...

Well I never thought that it could rain dust, but as I ran out of my apartment complex this morning (late for work as usual) the whole of Beijing was covered with dust.  It almost looked like one of those forlorn desert towns in Westerns except there were cars and newspaper vendors.

Posted by Aventurina King at 10:36:58 | Permanent Link | Comments (0) |

April 16, 2006

Do you travel black? (Private Transportation in Beijing)

Taxi drivers in Beijing don't like me.  And I can't blame them.  When you pick up a foreigner from the side of the road, I imagine, as a Chinese cab driver, you would expect a silent, eventless snail-crawl through the suffocating Beijing parking-lot traffic.  Unfortunately, not so with me.


I am a very impatient person and have been since childhood(I often rooted around in the freezer right before dinner).  Trapped in the general immobility on the third ring road, or desperately trying to distract myself by looking at misspelled English on advertisements during those long minutes in front of the dreaded Chao Yang park bridge red-light are forms of mental torture.  Polite as I am, I only voiced my desperate condition to the driver with the phrase that replaces "how are you do" at Beijing cocktail parties: "Jintian Beijing tai du le" (There's so much traffic today in Beijing!).

This changed when I met Mr. J though.  Mr. J is a black car driver or hei che siji, slang for an unregistered Taxi.  He is a jovial, round-faced Beijinger who enjoys himself much as the rest of the city's native population--late nights of Majiang accompanied with shots of Erguotou (the taste is a cross between vodka and sweaty feet), a few healthy ups-and-downs the mountain on the week-end.  The rest of his life, he drives around a fluctuating list of customers and sits by the road waiting for someone who looks as though he's in search of a cab. 

Like most Beijingers, he is a hard bargainer, but a faithful business partner once trust has been established. 
If handled well, Black cab prices tend to be 10% lower than cab fares and traveling time is multiplied by two thirds.  The secret to their speed is creativity and location.  In Beijing, unlike other world-wide capitals, traffic regulations have not been quite sorted out yet.  Very infrequently do policemen patrol the streets, and when they do, they are generally the first to violate the regulations.  This leaves space for creative driving.  Beijing's outrageous traffic situation makes creative driving a necessity.
Mr. J likes to sing and laugh as he drives.  He always tells me he likes old Chinese songs but I frequently catch him playing techno versions of them.  Driving seems as breezy as listening to Teresa Teng for him, the chorus has just started and he is already off the side of the road skipping the reptilian tail of cars, the second chorus is on and he is in the bicycle lane ("I can't run over them though" he reminds me), by the end of the song, we are taking the usual short-cut through the car park.

I have been spoilt by Mr. J in terms of Beijing driving and this brings me back to the first point I wanted to make.  Since Mr. J's driving, there has not been one cab-driver who I haven't chided for "uncreative driving and unviolent driving."  They laugh off my demands for them to ignore red lights or enter the bicycle lane, but gradually, my persistency annoys them and they fall silent, probably wondering whether capitulation will silence me. 
Posted by Aventurina King at 14:29:43 | Permanent Link | Comments (1) |

January 18, 2006

Amazing Beijing 1

There are a few things which have amazed me in Beijing this week. Here I was, I thought having spent three months last summer in the city, nothing would stay my steps and have me make that inhaling sound which quickly rises into a screech.
This happened last Saturday at 8 o'clock in the evening, I was strolling down the highway to IKEA, the only IKEA in Beijing. Now I have seen queues before, I participate in them frequently when I am catching a flight (first class is for those other inferior mortals) or when I was younger, to climb up to the Eiffel Tower on one of those crisp blue crowd-magnet summer days, but I had never queued to go shopping. The customer is the king, and why would a bunch of kings gather in the same place and queue in front of a shopping mall.
Low and behold, there they were, all the nobles in a long queue which coiled around the building, just to get in and by IKEA stuff. Having come all this way, I wasn't going to be snotty about the whole thing and turn on my heels. So I stood there like the others, 15 minutes out in the Beijing winter. When I finally neared the entrance, two guards herded my group in like cattle through a gate, and I was in among the throng of people, unable to rush through the store at my pace without knocking a flowerbed of legs with my big yellow, and smiling, IKEA bag.
Now here comes the deep analytical part of the blog:
But hhhhhwhy do so many Chinese people like IKEA, enough to queue in and out every weekend?
The attraction of the new (IKEA is just recently installed).
The attraction of what is new and foreign.
And miracle of all miracles, what is foreign and ........... cheap!
For once in Chinese people's lifetime, Western products can actually rival in price with their hometown ones. And that is worth queuing for every Saturday hail or snow, noble or not.
Posted by Aventurina King at 23:49:09 | Permanent Link | Comments (2) |

August 12, 2005

Cricket Fighting

In the kitchen of a chinese friend of mine, I discovered a cluster of round covered pots on the floor.  I knelt down and asked him what they were.  He took off the lid of one of them, and there it was, a huge cricket.  Along side of it was a tiny bowl, the size of my thumb's fingernail with water and an even tinier container of cricket food: "rice" explained my friend.  With a blade of hay, he started teasing the insect which immediately showed its fangs and bit at the enemy.

Apparently, cricket fighting is a tradition in china.  Individuals raise them in their homes and then take them outside to compete with their friends' crickets.

Another lid covered an even larger cricket, leaning on it's powerful hind legs.  "who do you think would win if they fought?"my friend asked.  I pointed to the bigger one. He took the opposite bet and spilled the content of the first pot into the second.  Somehow, vicious images of blood and broken limbs had come to my mind when i first heard the words fight.  But the cricket fight was to be nothing of the sort.  My cricket (the one i had bet on) bared its fangs, made a lot of noise (it sounded like the opera star renee fleming when she reaches the high A), turned over the other cricket, once or twice.  After that, it seemed like a game of cat and mouse, the opponent running around the bowl as my cricket chased it. "my cricket lost" said my friend, he took a small cricket net, delicately caught and placed the cricket back in his home.  Both crickets were rewarded with some water and food.

Posted by Aventurina King at 09:48:42 | Permanent Link | Comments (2) |

August 11, 2005

Second visit to a chinese hospital

I just came back from my second and, I swear, final visit to a chinese hospital.  Early in the morning, I accompanied my chinese friend to Renmin Yiyuan (the people's hospital, the largest one in Beijing).  She was pregnant and didn't want to be anymore. 

From what I gathered, even though China is the number one country of child birth control (strayers from the one family, one child policy are heavily fined) pregnancies are commonplace.  Unlike in the States, one low-dosage brand of birth control pills is readily available over the pharmacy counter and condom packages sprout up in front of the cashier of any local supermarket.  But Chinese seldom use contraception, there is no sexual education in China.  Such non-chinese medecine as birth control pills is enveloped in a halo of suspicion.  "They make you fat", "They're not healthy" chinese girls snap out.  So instead of preventing, they remedy.

As I walked into the tiled, greenish light of the hallway hospital, the first thing i noticed were the beds strutting out perpendicularly in the river of people the two of us were wading in.  There were people in those beds, old men lying on their side twitching, others changing the position of their bones restlessly.  We followed one branch of the river up to the third floor.  The room was cut diagonally by a crowd of women waiting in line to be diagnosed.  My friend had already come yesterday to receive her diagnosis, and her abortion: a pill which causes instant menstruation.  But she had thrown up part of the potent medecine, she lost blood, but not the embryo.  She came back this morning to get another pill.

I waited outside the auxiliary diagnosis room on a row of hard blue plastic chairs, women kept on pouring in through the doors.  A minority were accompanied by men, harsh wrinkled fathers, or round faced husband listening to their mp3 players; most were alone, looking away from each other. They were all there to get an abortion.  White hefty nurses dawdled across the tiled floor carrying dirty bags of ustensils, a set of dirty scalpels lay on the table in front of me.

My friend came out, walked to the other side of the corridor and entered the operation room. Two minutes later, she came out, drank some water, slowly sat down next to me and said she was going to get an operation.  "You can't take the pill twice."  I suppressed a frown and tried to smooth out the warble in my voice as I placed my hand on her shoulder saying everything would be fine.

She led me in another auxiliary room, light crept through a large opaque glass panel and radiated a warm green.  Three beds flanked the walls.  She sat down and looked through the opaque light.  We remained silent, another woman came in and lay down.  Her face was expressionless, behind her black eyes, there was nothing apart from the faintly flickering apprehension of what was to come.  Both of them had their hands on their stomachs, as though they were trying to sooth, not harm what was within.

Gradually, more women came in, crowded the beds.  One paced across the room rubbing her stomach, asking how the others were doing, spurting out her everlasting distrust of men.  One, a skinny statue of marble, panic in her eyes, stood up and covered her mouth, desperately trying to suppress the urge to throw up.  "don't throw up" my friend said calmly "if you throw up, you will have to get an operation like me."

I sat on one corner of the beds, a quite observer, I didn't know what to do to make things better, so at minute intervals, I caressed my friend's hair, to remind her that I was by her side.  It was only when she came back after 30 minutes of operation and I saw her eyes, that something snapped in me.  Without a word, she groped for the bed, the other women helped me pull the covers over her.  She lay on her side, her eyes wide open, void, staring into the emptiness in front of them.  Her face was clear as a windless sea, but it was inert, lifeless, that of a being that had been wounded beyond pain, as in a shell shock.

I exited the silent room and fainted on the blue plastic.  Later, as we slowly walked down to the first floor, she patted her hand on my back and smiled at me, I was still crying.

 

Posted by Aventurina King at 04:24:15 | Permanent Link | Comments (3) |
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